Nadina’s Free online knitting patterns

Here’s a little program that lets you create your own graph paper (you set vertical lines per inch & horizontal lines per page). You’d have to do a guage swatch & measure your rows & stitches & do some math. I’d use this if you can’t find the knitters graph paper :

it’s at: http://www.winsite.com/bin/Info?500000008486 you need winzip to undo it.

I personally dislike fringe, so I wanted to add an edging instead to the stole I am making now. I have the idea in my head that there is a way to do a provisional cast on, and then go back & somehow pick up the stitches as you go along and knit an edging perpendicular to the cast on. Well, yes, edgings can be done this way. But I wouldn’t use a provisional cast-on unless I were going to pick up all the stitches from the cast-on and work down. In this case, I would use a method similar to that used in applied I-cord: work my edging to the last 2 sts, k (or p) 2 tog, k 1 stitch from the finished edge. The long-tail cast-on base stitches will be fine. I prefer knitted-in edgings because there’s less opportunity for error. You can ease the edging in as you go and it’s much more accurate. If you attach edgings, yes you should pin them in and mattress-stitch them in place. AND you are going to have to guesstimate how much edging you’ll be needing and not bind the stitches off in case you discover at the end you have knit too little…

I suggest  that chenille “hides” the garter stitch effect nicely…You are getting a good knitting education in using a non wool fiber. You will reach new heights in your knitting career by making these items look good by a very gentle pressing/ and blocking.
I know not all can use wool in their items due to personal circumstances, but its a lovely fiber to work w/ and block, especially in shawls. Its my personal favorite as a fiber for many things, especially shawls.The only fiber that I have had a lot trouble w/ is chenille. I wish it was an easier fiber to work w/, for its a glamous looking fabric

I like wool because it keeps me warm and I am always cold…I don’t find silk to be as warm. You can adjust the amount of warmth by how loosely the shawl is made…one on big stitches will give you more circulation.

Are you looking for warmth or just a light cover-up…and, by the way, once you make a shawl…you could get hooked!

BEFORE you knit with it…
Take a bit of the yarn between your fingers of both hands, pull, tug and twist it a little. Then push it back against itself (about half inch will do). If the threads in the twist fall all apart ittjust might split while you are working with it.

Just knit with what you like. But on the other hand, if you plan on frogging alot (ripping out your knitting), I’d probably wouldn’t use it just for convenience sake. You can untwist the yarn while you are knitting, frogging, knitting, frogging, knitting, etc.

What you really need to watch out for is that slippery stuff. You haven’t knit yet till you try to keep some of that slippery stuff on your metal needles. LOL It’s impossible! You havent knit yet you will try to combine the yarn with something else or try and use wooden needles. I pass this tip on from experience.

Good luck!

Are you knitting with acrylics, or with wool? wool fibres tend to stick to themselves just by their nature…
So, for acrylic fibers: Knitting the two ends together should be sufficient to lock in those
new balls of yarn, but if you would feel more secure, weave the ends
in for a few stitches horizontally thru your knit stitches. You can
even take a stitch or two back then along the row below if you want.
For wool fibers (I am working with right now):
I’ve attached ball o’ yarn #6 to my shole. This thing is starting to wear on me, so I thought maybe I’d stop & take care of the ends I have hanging everywhere…When I joined each new ball, I knitted or purled holding the old yarn and new yarn together for 3-5 stitches, whatever the pattern would allow (I had decided it wouldn’t be good to do this near any yo’s)…
I weave my ends in the direction I think they will be least visible…If you
are working with wool, the fact that you have already knit them together for
a few stitches should be close to enough…the wooliness with cause them to
stay attached after you have washed and blocked..

If you’ve raised livestock for very long you learn that most animals who are not healthy, die and the issue stops there. The old farmers never ate sick animals, those got hauled away/burned/buried. An injured animal that wasn’t drugged is safe to be butchered, but the degree of injury would affect adrenaline and likelihood of toughness, thus the decision would have to be made carefully and that animal might be best as dog food. (more…)

- they came out beautifully! In case anyone is interested, I bought some cheap wooden picture frames, some cheap mats, and double stick tape. Stuck white paper over the cardboard backing in the frame, stuck the blocked swatch onto the paper with the double stick tape, threw it in the frame under the mat & voila! So easy to coordinate with your room! (more…)

Oh yeah. You never stop ripping no matter how good you THINK you are. I’ve been ripping out  for too many years. I almost never take the work off the needles unless the mistake is so egregious, I have no choice. But when I do rip each stitch out, rather than pull the yarn out of the old stitch each time, I do an entire row (round) and then gently pull the ripped yarn.
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